What I can see

The coast of Piraeus is one of the highlights of the greater Athens area, not only for its beauty but also for its archaeological value. The ancient walls are the area’s crown jewels. They were built by Conon, who reshaped and extended the Themistoclean fortifications of the city with Persian funding. It has been erroneously suggested that the walls were built by Themistocles or Pericles, when in fact they were built much later, even though within the classical period. The wall runs along the entire Themistocles Coast (approximately 2.5 km) with square towers at 45 to 100 metre intervals. It has very good foundations and grouting and for the most part, was built with an “engager technique” (=two masonry facades of blocks made with marly limestone, with gaps filled with dirt and quarry debris). The wall has deteriorated in the past several decades. German pillboxes, a naval monument built during the dictatorship, tennis and football courts, illegal structures, tables and chairs from local shops, embankments, polders, graffiti, litter and residue, make for a daunting, unattractive picture. However, the landscape itself combined with recent efforts to address the situation, have somewhat improved on this picture. The coast has a beautiful walkway appropriate for jogging and walking and to admire the sunset. Moreover, the many taverns of the area (mostly fish-taverns) offer the opportunity for a traditional Greek outing by the Saronic Gulf. There are also cafes, perfect for breakfast or an afternoon coffee. Finally, although many people swim or fish in the area, swimming and fishing are not recommended because of the proximity to the port of Piraeus.

What I can't see

Themistocles envisioned ancient Athens as a mighty naval power and turned his attention to the development of Piraeus’ port and fortifications. During Pericles’ time, Piraeus became a harbour deserving a great military power. This area is now known to Athenians for its fish taverns, not for its city walls. What is interesting is that many residents of Piraeus are unaware that their city has any ancient walls at all. Unfortunately, a considerable part of the walls has been destroyed due to the use of the stones to build the new city. What remains of them comes alive during the summer months when groups of young people gather here to relax and play music or when “homeless” couples find refuge here. In September it hosts the Sea Bream Feast, which opens fishing season. Some unwelcome effects include isolated cases of drug trafficking.

Info

• Address: Themistokleous coast

Bibliography