What I can see

Plaka is the oldest district in the city, built on the foothills of the Acropolis. It encompasses a wide range of architectural styles, the most prominent one being a popular version of classicism. There are also some buildings from the Byzantine and Ottoman periods and the time of King Otto as well as a few examples of eclecticism and even fewer modernist ones. The dominant element in most Plaka houses is its Athenian-type indoor courtyards. Plaka is also famous for its taverns, where one can sample Greek cuisine and traditional beverages, while listening to live Greek music. The area offers mostly mild entertainment options and the chance to escape from the city in its picturesque alleys. Its street layout may seem chaotic, but it follows a wise logic. The orientation of the houses, the streets that follow the air currents, and their narrow width, restrain the winter cold and dry north winds and limit the hot sun and heat during summer.

What I can't see

The name “Plaka” was first recorded in the 16^th century and referred to the area around the Lysicrates monument. There are three accounts about the origin of the name: the first one attributes it to the existence of a large white plate (=plaka) at the junction of Thespidos, Adrianou and Tripodon Streets; the second links it to the planar form of the soil; a third account links the name to the Arvanite (Albanian) word “plak” which means “old” and was used to describe the old town. The last version is the dominant one, since Albanians arrived in the area in the 16^th century. When Athens became the capital of Greece, Plaka was the city’s heart. Building restrictions were implemented to protect its antiquities but were not able to halt its expansion and the many planning violations. During the first years of the Greek kingdom, it was a favourite “destination” of antiquities smugglers. Until the 1970s, there was a discussion about demolishing Plaka to excavate the entire ancient city below. This debate continues today, albeit unofficially, but the issue of changing the decision to preserve Plaka is no longer raised. The district is also associated with the urban myth of Uncle John the jug maker, the first performances of the “corruptor” Karagiozis, among other Shadow Theatre characters, its annual carnival festivities and the game of stone throwing that used to be played here on Sundays, in the old days.

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